Check Ups

1. When your going to put your Buggy up for the winter, I have found one thing ususally happens over the
"cold" times. I don't know what it is but it seems the Gasoline that is now made wants to turn to varnish as
it sits not only in the tank but the carb ( carbs ) as well. I have had great success with "Sta-bil" that goes
into the gas tank when you fill up. If your going to put yor buggy up, be sure to let the engine run long
enough to fill the carburator with the additive gas mixture. That keeps the gas from turning in the
carburator. I also do not let a full tank of gas sit in the tank, I try to remove most of it.

2.First thing I do is a wheel bearing test. With the car one the ground, grab the front wheels with your
hands at 12 oclock and give them a pull. If the wheel moves in and out then two things will need to be
checked. A. Make sure the spindle nut is on tight . If it is , then you need to pull the wheel and check the
bearings. This is done by backing off the brake shoes, jack the buggy side up. Remove the Lock Nut and
pull the wheel and drum off as a unit ( I have found it easier this way ). The front bearing will come off with
the drum and the back bearing should be on the spindle.

3. After inspecting the bearings, check the rubber seal. Take a good look at the brake shoes ( if you have
drum ) and the front brake cylinder. If the cylinder is dry, then inspect the star adjusters and clean and
grease them before installing the drum back on. Also take a good look at the front rubber brake lines
going into the cylinders. Replace any worn,cracked, or wet lines as your life might depend on the brakes
working!

4, Now check all the ball joints and or link pins for play. This can be done by rocking the wheel side to
side while looking at the ball joints, if there is movement then you need to replace them. This does not
cost a lot but but it will keep those wheels going where you pointed them. Check the lock nuts as they
sometimes do come loose. Replace any defective joints. Link pins are usually very solid and only need
attention after many years of use, but check anyway. If your replacing the ball joints, slow down and count
the threads on the original joint showing from the tube. Then when you replace the ball joint, you don't have
to get a new front alignment.

5. Lastly, check the fuel line from the tank to the line in the frame. It should be dry but not worn or frayed.
While you there, check the rubber disk between the steering shaft and the steering box. These
somestimes break and split yet still function. I would not want to drive anywhere with a chance of this
coming all apart as you might turn only to find the buggy did not follow your steering wheel's motion.

6.I know this might sound silly but check your bottom of your pan where the battery sits, make sure you not
getting any rust out there or you could have a battery dragging while having fun ( saw this happen once ,
so don't think I am crazy ).

7. Now with the rear of your Buggy set up in the air start at the front nose cone of your buggy and check to
see if all your bolts are on the cone and tight. Also check the metal strap between the tranny and the
frame nose cone bolt. If the strap is worn, I would replace it as your buggy will stop if it breaks. I have seen
guys use short heavy duty battery cables instead of the strap. They told me it was more durable but I have
never used one.

8. Moving down the tranny you need to inspect the side plates. Make sure all the bolts are in and tight and
there are no leaks in the gaskets between the tranny and the plates. Next, check those axle boots. They
need to be solid ( no cracks or tears ) and securely afixed to the side plates and the axles. Replace if
worn as the tranny fluid will leak out there and cause tranny failure for lack of tranny oil.